Leaving Darwin - and coming back

We did leave - temporarily.  Time is marching on and we should have been well and truly in the Kimberleys by now.  We need to be out of there by October as it will be getting close to cyclone season and we want to be in safe waters in south W.A. before that happens.

We had a light breeze blowing and the weather-man promised a window of 2 - 3 days of south-easterly winds - just enough to get us across the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf.

By mid-morning the breeze had stopped so we motored for a couple of hours.  Ian was concerned, the sea breeze should be making us smile by now.  We decided to drop anchor off Charles Point which is about 12nm from Darwin. 

We had to re-assess our actions.  We had enough fuel to get us there but we needed more to cover us in case of emergencies.  We decided the best thing to do was to go back and wait for better wind or go back and buy more jerry-cans for extra fuel.  It meant going back  :(

Charles Point isn't a place where one would normally anchor because it's not sheltered, but in the calm conditions, it was fine. . . .  and we got to go ashore and get a closer look at the beautiful red cliffs.

Cliffs tapered away to this grove of mangroves at the end.

Crab Artwork

Charles Point Lighthouse

.

An Osprey patrols the cliff edges










The following morning it was 'back to Darwin'.  Radio announcement from Port of Darwin was to stay at least 500m from this huge bulk gas tanker.

We had seen the outline of the huge white gas tanks from a distance while in Darwin and wondered what it was.









We got back and cheered Clive up - we know he missed us :))

His friend, Jim, had to go to hospital for eye surgery the following day, so he lent us his car after we took him to the hospital - thanks Jim.





We had a heavy fog that morning which was quite eerie.  

Becalmed in Fannie Bay.

We headed out to visit the wetlands near Humpty Doo.

At Fogg Dam we found this Forest Kingfisher looking very pleased with himself.

Pied Heron and Black-winged Stilt 

These two stood in the still waters of the wetlands and admired their reflections.

A flying duet of Pied Herons.

And it continued - a feast of feathers and beauty.

Whistling Ducks

Black-necked Stork and Egret

Rajah Shelduck

Ian let me take this photo of him because he thought I wouldn't. If you don't get any more blogs, it's because he killed me.

Darwin to Ambon Yacht Race

We are still in becalmed waters in Darwin.  Yesterday we went to Stokes Hill Wharf to watch the start of the Darwin to Ambon Yacht Race.  We were curious to see whether they would even get over the start line in these calm conditions.

The entrants floated serenely on the almost mirror like water, waiting for the start of the race.


 It mightn't be too good for sailing but it was great for photography.





 Lucky they timed the start of the race with the change of the tide, so they were able to drift in the right direction.


The specialized race yachts were able to use the 3 knot wind and were away.









Leaving the others to
struggle across the start line.









Today we decided to leave the marina to anchor outside the lock, ready to take advantage of any slight air movement to help us on our way to the Kimberleys.  

Entering the lock from the marina.












This time we knew what to do!




The windmeter hit 6kn a while ago so at the moment we are thinking will we or won't we.  

We'll see what happens at the turn of the tide :)

Clive's Shortcuts

We didn't get too far today as the wind didn't happen and the water lay like a mirror.  Clive, Ian's brother who lives in Darwin, was waiting at the breakwater to take photos of us leaving.  Finally he rang to see where we were.

Well, if we weren't sailing anywhere, what should we do?  Go to the Botanical Gardens.







Clive knew a good shortcut via the foreshore.  We believed him!                              












Clive takes a well earned rest.  These shortcuts are hard work.

Along the way we got distracted by Rainbow Bee-eaters.  The three of us had a bit of fun trying to get action photos.

Finally, hot and thirsty, we made it to the gardens.  We tried to find an ice-cream shop but all we found was trees and flowers. 






Time to go home and get some photos of the sunset.  We have had magnificent sunsets every night.  Ian and I are forever on the watch for "the green flash" but so far have only seen magnificent sunsets.

                                                    

A Week in Darwin

We arrived in Darwin on 17 Aug.  It was a bit of a nerve racking experience getting into the marina as we had to go through a lock which we had never done before.  We amused the lockmaster with our nervousness.

Odd shaped sandstone cliffs along the foreshore, entering Darwin at Cullen Bay.











We made it though and were soon "locked" safe and sound in the marina at Cullen Bay.  From the look of the yachts in this marina it is apparent that yacht racing is alive and well here.  It must take a bit of organization on race days as they all have to get out through the lock for their events.  



The marina is surrounded by cafes and restaurants.
I found out very quickly to go to the bathroom fully dressed (not in my nighty) before bed as the walkway took you straight past the most popular restaurant.

We hired a car to do errands as well as have an inland trip which we did to Litchfield National Park.  We thought this would be a good place to see lots of wildlife as well as cool off in spectacular waterfalls.

The roads were very good which meant that "a lot" of other people could do the same.  Lucky that there aren't too many people willing to wander around swamps looking for birds, so we had Tabletop Swamp mostly to ourselves.




A yellow form of the Snowflake lilly.  So called as they have a delicate fringe around the flower petal.  They are of the Nymphoides family.

A Royal Spoonbill surveys his kingdom, looking for a dirty rascal to eat.

Ian looking for snakes amongst the weird and wonderful rock formation in Litchfield National Park.

Fruit Bats keeping an eye on us at Wangi Falls.









Unfortunately, the number of people visiting the waterfalls were inversely proportional to the number of people birdwatching.  This, combined with good roads and easy access meant that there was standing room only when we got to each waterfall.

Back in Darwin, we visited Lake Alexander, a salt water man-made lake.  We spent a few hours there taking photos and feeding the sandflies. 










A camera-shy Rajah Shelduck disturbs the glassiness of the lake - beautiful!

Pied Imperial Pigeons enjoying a tasty meal of Palm fruit.







                                      




Back at the marina.

 Striated Herons are showing up everywhere.

A leaf in the still water of the morning.
















Sunset at Cullen Bay.







Off to the Kimberleys.

Great White Hunter Strikes Again

We left Seisia on Thu 9 Aug with light winds.  We admired the bow wave of the Thursday Island ferry as it sped past.  We took photos of them as they took photos of us.

Thursday Island ferry 

               
  This was the day we were going to start using our new, very expensive wind vane self steering.  Wind vanes and auto pilots are given names as they make up for extra crew.  We named the wind vane Yorso as in "you're so vain" the song.  Well, it didn't work and Ian finished up calling it Yorso Stupid.  

In the meantime, Ian had set a line out, as he did when we weren't in the green zone (you can't fish in these zones).  The next thing Yorso problem was forgotten as we had a strike.  The Great White Hunter battles the Spanish Mackerel.  Who will win?  The Hunter?  The Mackerel? The Hunter?  The Mackerel? The Hunter?  The Mackerel? The Hunter won!!!! 

The mackerel measured 1.2m from nose to tail.  We portioned the meat into 16 generous meals for two.


Well, we mightn't have self steering but we had plenty of fish.









Ian had to steer all night as I was unable to.  We were hoping that Ian could sleep through the day while I did the helm.  Unfortunately,  he just couldn't get to sleep.  

As we were halfway across the gulf with no land in sight, there was no hope of anchoring anywhere and we had to sail on.  There was no choice but for me to overcome my night vertigo as it was out of the question for Ian to do the whole night again after so little sleep. 

I took on the dusk into darkness shift to ease the transition.  It's amazing what you can do out of necessity.

That night the winds picked up and we managed a good 7-8kn which is a great speed for Winkali.  However, the next day the winds continued to strengthen until they were around 30kn and the swell built up to beyond the fun stage.  As we were both exhausted by then and we had reached the western side of the gulf, we battled our way to Marchinbar Is which is in the Wessel Is group at the top of the gulf.






 We anchored there for two days and nights till the winds started to abate.  The island looked fantastic to explore but as the wind was still up to 25kn, we didn't dare to take the dinghy across.

We could only look at the uninhabited island from Winkali.








It took another 3 days and nights to sail to Darwin.  The winds eased off as we went and by the last day we had to motor sail.  We were grateful to have Scotty (our Autopilot) aboard to take over while we motored.  He is good in calmer waters but can't handle the rougher seas which is why we couldn't use him earlier.

We're in Darwin now for a week.  Will write another post before we leave for the Kimberleys.

To "The Tip" and beyond

We left Lizard Island on 30 July and had a short sail to Howick Island.  We arrived early afternoon which gave the great white hunter and his trusty assistant time to throw a line in.  Yippee!!!!!!!!  The assistant caught a fish of the smaller variety and decided to keep it for dinner.  Then the great white hunter showed her how it was done and caught a lovely Spanish Mackerel Which was big enough to feed us for a week.  The assistant threw her fish back in.

The next day we set sail for Flinders Islands.  We had the islands to ourselves, Ian couldn't believe there weren't half a dozen boats at least, moored there.




Sunrise at Flinders Is.












We got up early the next day, packed our cameras and snacks and were off exploring.  As usual, the first thing I look for is birds.  It wasn't long before Ian had located the source of the new birdsong we were hearing.

It was the Red-headed Honeyeater  which occurs  across the top of Australia from about Cooktown to Broome. It was exciting for me because I had been looking for one for a few years now.

We saw lots of lizard tracks and finally found a lizard.  It was a Sand Monitor.  It must have been what Captain Cook found and named Lizard Island after.


Flinders Island is quite steep and rocky.  We climbed almost to the top.  We needed the exercise and the view was worth it.  When we got to the bottom the great white hunter was at it again.

This time it was oysters.  They put up a good fight and he had to wrestle them to the ground, but lucky he had a knife with him.  

It was Oysters Kilpatrick when we got back to the boat.








We set out next on 2 Aug to Morris Is.  Not much wind today and we had to motor some of it, but the blue of the sky and turquoise water with an occasional sandy cay and light beacon gave the day an ethereal quality. 

Morris Island was a surprise because of the unusual vegetation.  From a distance it seemed to be bristly.  

The other thing is it was supposed to have only one tree. Someone must have thought it was lonely and planted another.

Although it was already 5 o'clock when we anchored, we couldn't resist a quick visit to the island because it was so unusual.  This photo shows the vast expanse of sand reef which seems to go on forever, off the end of the island.

 We found this little fellow dining on one of the plants (some sort of cactus thing with a large yellow flower head).  I thought it was a rat at first glance but it doesn't have a pointy face like a rat.  I've put 2 photos of him here in the hope that someone can enlighten us.

Ian found some really nice timber which he had to reluctantly part with when we went back to the boat.





The next day (3 Aug) we set sail for Shelburne Bay Which is even more spectacular than Cape Flattery for its silicon sand dunes.  As we passed Hicks Island, Ian spotted a huge flock of birds on the horizon.  As we neared, we saw thousands of Black Noddys all in a feeding frenzy.  At one stage they came straight past the boat.  The birds were after a small fish which we couldn't see, but we did see the larger fish which were hunting the small fish in competition with the birds.

The great white hunter once again set to work, but it was all in vain.  The fish weren't interested in a lure when the real thing was to be had.

To add to the excitement of the day, we had some fun company for a while.









The following night we anchored at Portland Roads, just north of Cape Weymouth where the early explorer, Kennedy, had to leave 8 of his men to make a dash for the north.  We didn't go ashore as the tide was too far out and we would have had to drag the dinghy over a large area of reef and mangrove sludge. Yuk!

Sun 5 Aug we anchored at the Escape River where Kennedy met his death but his trusty assistant, Jacky Jacky, managed to escape and finally reach the Ariel to be rescued.

We sailed out at sunrise to another beautiful day.

The following day, 6 Aug, we sailed up the last leg of the east coast and anchored at Mt Adolphus Island.  When Ian said that he wanted to go there (it's about 7nm northwest of Cape York Peninsular) I said "why do you want to go there?"








When we got there I was glad and couldn't think of anywhere else I would want to stay.  It was sheltered and lined with mangroves, sandy beaches and rocks in interesting segments.  It had hills (which we didn't climb) and it had Mangrove Robins!  I'd never seen these before either.  





Mangroves are beautiful, if you can withstand the midgies.     




















This little tuft of reeds found an unfortunate place to call home.  They are in a rock depression which gathered a bit of soil and must have held water long enough for them to take root.








7 Aug and we left Mt Adolphus Island to sail past "The Tip" and then south to Seisia.  First thing we did was gather up our laundry, grab some shampoo and towels and head over to the camping ground for some overdue scrubbing.  A bit of shopping for some fresh food and we had everything we wanted - almost.  

We had run out of wine two days ago and were having withdrawals.  Lucky, a friend of Jesses (Ian's daughter) lives at Bamaga and came to our rescue.  We couldn't get to Bamaga without a car and the only bottle shop was in Bamaga. Thanks Dan.

  

The next day was for walking and taking photos. It wasn't long before we saw the iconic Palm Cockatoo.  Ian wasn't as enthused as I thought he should have been.  When questioned, he said he thought they were really common and he was expecting to see them.  I explained that I have taken tours to Cape York with people whose main desire was to see a Palm Cockatoo, and they are not always to be seen. 

  Looking along the beach to Seisia jetty (around the corner).

Early morning fishing seems to be the order of the day in this part of the world.

 Ian can see this Striated Heron, which lurks along the foreshore, becoming a comic character.

 A White-throated Honeyeater gather some nice soft spider-webs for his nest. 

Tomorrow we leave for Darwin.  We're planning in going straight over the top without stops.